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Saving Flyback Transformers

Posted in antiqueradios.com

by irob2345

My original method involved a long (8 hour) simmer in a slow cooker filled with mineral turpentine (referred to as "turps" here, also known in the US as paint thinner. It's used to wash brushes after using non-water-based paints.

Peter Clifton, who knows a lot more about paint finishes than I do, substituted Prepsol at room temperature instead of the turps. Prepsol is used to remove wax from surfaces prior to painting. The wax otherwise causes "fisheyes" in the final finish. Prepsol also avoids the OH&S issues associated with turps when it's approaching its flash point!

We started with a flyback that had actually failed, as seen here:

Obviously a lot depends on how far the internal damage has progressed as to whether you can successfully resurrect a dead flyback.

After 24 hours soaking in Prepsol, all the wax (which has absorbed water) is dissolved.

A further 8 hours soak in turps is then done to ensure compatibility with the marine grade polyester lacquer soak.

It would be a good idea to fit short lengths of plastic sleeving over the solder tags because the poly will be difficult to remove once it sets, as Pete was to discover!

The first soak in poly is for 24 hours. This is to ensure that the poly penetrates the windings. The flyback is then left to dry for at least 8 hours at about 60 degrees C or so.
The next 5 poly applications can be brief dips followed by 8 hour drying. The aim is to build up a thicker coat to avoid corona discharge in the future.
Prior to the last coat of poly, hot-melt glue can be used to strengthen the HV anode lead fixing and to build up an anti-corona ring if the construction of the winding has any sharp edges. A hot air gun will smooth out your handiwork!